22 Comments
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Jeff Greenwald's avatar

The solar eclipse story that I told in my 2025 post “Mashallah” (available in my archive) is set in the beautiful Iranian city of Isfashan - a UNESCO cultural site that we, and Israel, are bombing. What a disgrace. https://jeffgreenwald.substack.com/p/mashallah?utm_source=publication-search

Mike Fitzhugh's avatar

Love this story, like all the others in Scratching the Surface. And it’s triple-ly poignant as events unfold in Iran, a place I still hope to visit someday.

Laurel Ramey's avatar

I love this story, Jeff; beautifully told and it was especially wonderful to hear you read it.

I have always been so deeply touched by the kindness of people around the world. “Your generosity has put me to shame” — what a beautiful phrase.

Mary Orr's avatar

Great story telling Jeffji and I loved to hear you reading it!

"Your generosity has shamed me" What a wonderful phrase! (If they'd known your wild assumptions and imaginings, those words might have landed even more powerfully.)

John ISOM's avatar

I cried.

Michael Shapiro's avatar

Love this story and the line from Cohen is pitch perfect.

Bob Weinstein's avatar

This is a great story and it reminds me of a similar story you told, I don't remember what book it was in. It might have been at the solar eclipse, where there were some young Iranians who may have been armed looking at you with hostility. Then if I remember correctly, a group of women surrounded you to protect you. Is the event on the 11th going to be shown on the internet?

Jeff Greenwald's avatar

Thanks, Bob, that’s a bit of selective memory! There was an anti-American demonstration, complete with flagburning and the firing of blanks, and all the people around me – not just women – stood up to surround me as a form of protection. Completely unsolicited and unexpected. But typical of the hospitality and kindness of all the Iranians I met.

Leslie R's avatar

Powerful story. Standing at the precipice where doom and gratitude collide. I've always wanted to travel to Iran, to take in it's history and people, but no place on Earth seems more inhospitable for an adventurous American woman. Thank you for sharing your story with us.

Tanya Fraser's avatar

Fantastic read. Thanks for sharing.

Molly Baumgardner Wimmer's avatar

This is the one story I heard you tell at Book Passage Travel Writers and Photographers Conference. Your truth-telling fiercely models what scheming isn’t. Thank you! 🙏🏻

Steve Rosenberg's avatar

Such a great story Jeff.

Gary Singh's avatar

Fantastic stuff, as usual!

Vijay Mehrotra's avatar

I remember this story so well from Scratching the Surface and also from Strange Travel Suggestions. Thanks for sharing it again!!

Norman Pirollo's avatar

Enjoyed the story!

Leo Le Bon's avatar

Jeff, you are a master teller. Keep writing. I was in Iran before the revolution, it was pro-west then, the Shah in power; Shiraz and Isfahan just so interesting with deep history and art.

Well I hope you are managing and enjoy the day. When would you like to go ride?

Julia's avatar

Wow, what a beautiful story. <3